Ronda is famous as the birthplace of modern bullfighting, today glimpsed once a year at the spectacular Feria Goyesca. Held at the beginning of September, here fighters and some of the audience dress in the manner of Goya's sketches of life in the region. Legendary Rondeño bullfighter Pedro Romero broke away from the prevailing Jerez 'school' of horseback bullfighting in the 18th century to found a style of bullfighting in which matadores stood their ground against the bull on foot. In 2006 royalty and movie stars were helicoptered in for the Goyesca's 50th anniversary celebrations in its small bullring, while thousands jammed the streets and parks outside. Otherwise the bullring, Plaza de Toros, is now a museum, and visitors can stroll out into the arena.

Ronda

Most people visit Ronda by car or bus (45mins) from the Costa del Sol, via San Pedro de Alcántara on the A376/C-3. The route through the Sierra Bermeja mountains is dramatic, and in winter the peaks attract low cloud and even snow. A gentler route leaves Málaga on the A357, bypassing the interior towns of Ardales, Carratraca and Cuevas de Becerra. There's also a more westerly and also very dramatic route from San Luis de Sabanillas near Estepona, taking the A377 via Casares and Gaucín on to Ronda. There are several daily train connections from Algeciras, Granada, Málaga and Sevilla, the last three changing at Bobadilla. There are also bus services from all the above.